Boat Barn Web Page
is the setup for pouring lead. I am inserting the lifting handle
into the eyebolts on the melting pot.
This is a better view of the pot. Just a cast iron dutch oven. The
eye bolts are for the lifting/pouring handle. The propane burner
beneath the pot is the guts of a space heater. The green burner is a
grass/weed killer with a light weight heat shield for the hand. The
pot sits on a log grate from the fireplace and is held in place by
some cement around the feet. The light weight metal is a wind
shield to hold the heat in. The setup would melt 60 lb. Of lead in 4
or 5 minutes.
We used mainly lead electrodes (which are the brown pieces) and
Linotype lead from a printing operation which no longer used the
Linotype machine. The electrodes were about three feet long and we
sawed them into pieces with a Skil saw.
The lead was dirty and produced a lot of dross which had to be ladled
The keel box had a top on one end which pitched down when the keel
sat level, so we had to raise the end of the keel and pour lead into
the covered end first, then lower the box when the lead under the
overhang had solidified.
You can see how the lifting bar works. There is a long arm which
passes through the two main eye bolts and an offset arm which passes
thru the eye bolt on the edge of the pot allowing us to tip it with
the tee handle on one end of the main bar. We poured about 60 pounds
per melt. It took two days to pour all 4000 pounds.
Just another shot of us pouring. The box is supported with sturdy
braces. Probably overkill, but I had no problems. You can see the
keel bolts coming out of the box. Deadwood will be built up around
the lead box.
is what the lead looked like as it solidified. The keel bolt onn the
left is tack welded to the partition in the box. There were several
partitions and all but this one had holes in them. The bolts were
bent into an “L” on the lower end. The copper tubing is
40 feet of ½ inch ID tubing which I buried in the lead tyo use
as a keel cooler for the engine.